This black engobe, L3954F, is on a cone 6 buff stoneware (at leather hard stage). It contains only 7.5% Mason 6600 black stain. How is that possible? Why do people add so much more to their underglazes? Because this recipe has been tuned to have the same degree of maturity as the body - it therefore fires totally opaque. This contrasts with underglaze/engobe recipes containing significant frit, among other issues, their vitreous nature renders them translucent. Thus, up to 40% stain is needed to crowbar their opacity enough to intensify color. And a thicker application (that carries other issues).

Notice how thinly and evenly this is applied. This was possible because of another key factor: The slurry was adjusted to be thixotropic. The thinner layer enables drying more quickly. The body-compatible engobe recipe also means fewer issues with flaking during drying, better fire-fit.

These are pure Custer feldspar and Nepheline Syenite. The coverage is perfectly even on both. No drips. Yet no clay is present. The secret? Epsom salts. I slurried the two powders in water until the flow was like heavy cream. I added more water to thin and then started adding the Epsom salts (powdered). After only a pinch or two, they both gelled. Then I added more water and more Epsom salts until they thickened again and gelled even better. The result is a thixotropic slurry. They both applied beautifully to these porcelains. The gelled consistency prevented them from settling in seconds to a hard layer on the bucket bottom. Could you do this with pure silica? Yes! The lesson: If these will suspend by gelling with Epsom salts then any glaze will. You never need to tolerate settling or uneven coverage for single-layer dip-glazing again!

G2931 Worthington Clear is a popular low to medium-fire transparent glaze recipe. It contains 55% Gerstley Borate (GB) plus 30% kaolin (GB melts at a very low temperature). GB is also very plastic, like a clay. I have thrown a pot from this glaze recipe! This explains why high Gerstley Borate glazes often dry so slowly and shrink and crack during drying. When recipes also contain a plastic clay like this one the shrinkage is even worse. GB is also slightly soluble, over time it gels glaze slurries even in smaller percentages. Countless potters struggle with Gerstley Borate recipes.

This is L4023F (a test body like our H440 cone 10R body). The polygons on this surface are produced when the 3D CAD software converts from its native format to an STL file that slicer software can use. These are the product of the default settings (which can be changed but increase file size). The precision of the 3D printer is evident in that it can reproduce these. Since the polygons are not visible in the final glazed piece, neither the PLA surface on the 3D printed block mold, or the surface of the plaster case mold made from it, were sanded.

Feldspars are employed in glaze recipes as melters. So comparing their melt fluidities should be helpful in deciding if one can substitute for another (of course, if possible a soda predominant feldspar should be substituted for another soda spar). Feldspars don't melt alone at cone 6 (2200F) so we mixed each with 15% Ferro Frit 3195. Nepheline Syenite is obviously the champion melter here. Other similar ones can be spotted easily. In the end, degree of melt is a valid consideration in determining if one feldspar is a viable substitute for another in a recipe. Even if the feldspar you want to substitute does not melt as much a little frit can be added to the recipe to make up for the difference (e.g. 3-5%).

Only three tile shapes were needed. The fish cutters were 3D printed to both cut and stamp at the same time. Multiple slightly different sizes of the triangle and trapezoid were made to accommodate irregularities and keep joints tighter. The clay is M340 and the glazes are Amaco Celadons and Potter's Choice (for brushing). These are small and we found that a good way to paint them was to glue them down to a plaster slab with a few drops of glaze (it was easy to scrape off when the three coats had dried).

This glaze is "stretched" on the clay so it cracks. When the lines are close together like this it is more serious. If the effect is intended, it is called "crackle" (but no one should intend this on functional ware). Potters, hobbyists and artists invariably bump into this issue whether using commercial glazes or making their own.

"Art language" solutions don't work, at least some technical words are needed to understand it. Crazing is a mismatch in the thermal expansions of glaze and body. Most ceramics expand slightly on heating and contract on cooling. The amount of change is very small, but ceramics are brittle and glazes are rigidly attached. If they are stretched on the ware cracks will occur to relieve the stress (usually during cooling in the firing but sometimes much later). All glaze manufacturers advise against crazing on functional ware.

We wanted to compare the melt fluidity of G2934Y (left) to G2934 (right). To do that we prepared GBMF test balls (see below). The forming and drying process leave a flat spot so the gumball-sized balls are easy to place on a porcelain tile. During firing they flatten out. The degree to which they do acts as a measure of the flow (when compared with another). Many characteristics that one would not observe on glaze tiles reveal themselves in this test. In this case, we needed to know if the melt flow was at least as good (and this proves it is better). Reactive glaze tend to be the norm in recent years, their primary characteristic is being runny (having high melt fluidity). Their fired character...

For many years we have searched for a credible alternative to our Lightnin lab mixer. We found this unit on Amazon but then bought it from FristadenLab in Nevada. These are made in China but packaged, documented, shipped and supported in Nevada. This cost about $300US (a programmable one costs a little more but this is the better option for ceramic slurries). The first impression is how heavy the unit is. The base is 1/4" solid steel. The rods are all solid stainless 5/8". The clamp is also solid metal. The shaft is 3/8" and is held in place by a good quality chuck which enables easy release. The propeller is about 2 1/2" in diameter and screws on, it would thus be easy to 3D print other propellers and mount them on a hex nut (e.g. to fit into glaze jars). The locking mechanism enables mounting at an angle (important when trying to achieve the highest speed without sucking air bubbles). It plugs in via a 24v DC adapter (which means it has a DC motor). When switched on it speeds up gradually and the dial offers fine control of speed. On this occasion, we mixed 3500g of plaster in this 2 IMP gallon bucket (2.5 US gallon) with no problem. It runs completely silent and should easily mix this pail full of glaze or casting slip. A propeller mix like this is a great start to DIY glazes.

Simply put: Glaze misfit. The glaze is under compression and it is pushing outward. That compression was created as these terra cotta pieces cooled in the kiln. After the glaze solidified, somewhere above red heat, it became a glass and began to contract. The body, to which that glaze is attached by a glass bond, had its own higher rate of contraction. The glaze has some advantages in this battle. Its thick application gives it extra power to assert its thermal expansion. The body is over-fired and has become brittle. The unglazed outsides, incised designs and varying thickness provide points of weakness where cracks can start. The body resists the relentless force from inside but the odds were stacked against it and the pieces do not even make it out of the kiln. Of course, the glaze could be applied thinner, ware could be fired lower, it could have a more even cross-section and the outsides could be glazed. All will help, but increasing the thermal expansion of the glaze (by increasing KNaO at the expense of other fluxes), is one change that would fix this issue.